As the Covid-19 crisis started causing panic around the world, I was on the trip of a lifetime. My final adventure before scrambling back to the U.S. was a 5-day safari at Kichwa Tembo tented camp in Kenya’s famous Maasai Mara National Reserve. Going on an African safari is one of the most extraordinary and memorable adventures any traveler can experience.
After weeks of researching dozens of lodges, safari operators, and tour companies, I finally settled on one offered by &Beyond (pronounced “and beyond”). The company provides top-tier travel experiences throughout Africa, Asia, and South America. African safaris might be where the company shines brightest, though. Catering to a range of travelers, &Beyond offers a variety of travel experiences depending on your preference and budget.
During the trip, I saw more incredible animals than I could count. There were herds of massive elephants, hippos, crocodiles, rhinos. I saw hundreds of towering giraffes, hyenas, zebras, a cheetah, and so much more. At one point I even found myself within a few feet of a big male lion! The Maasai Mara is world-famous for its exceptional safari offerings. The location and tour company I chose combined ultimately created a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience.
The Location
Established in 1961, The Maasai Mara, or simply The Mara is an expansive national game reserve in southern Kenya. When the famous Serengeti National Park of Tanzania crosses the border into Kenya, it becomes the Maasai Mara. The Mara is one of the most crucial conservation areas in Africa and hosts the well-known Great Migration. The 580 square miles of rugged wilderness are home to an abundance of iconic African wildlife. This has earned the Maasai Mara its status as one of the 10 Wonders of The Word!
&Beyond considers the Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp a mid-luxury offering. The company describes the camp as “Classical Kenyan Safari Redefined.” Kichwa Tembo offers everything you could possibly want or need for an unbelievable safari experience. A safari really is that rare type of adventure that truly offers something for everyone.
Getting To Kichwa Tembo
The Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp sits far off the beaten path, right on the edge of the Maasai Mara. After a night in Nairobi, a car arrived at my hotel the next morning and shuttled me to the airport. Once there, a host from &Beyond greeted me and carried my bags inside. It’s important to note that weight restrictions on small safari planes significantly limit the amount of luggage you can bring. Therefore, it’s essential to plan ahead and pack smart when taking an African safari (more on this later).
Throughout my month-long journey through East Africa, I was carrying a substantial amount of clothing and gear. Over the previous 3 weeks, I had summited Mt. Kilimanjaro, in Tanzania, soaked up some rays on the warm sunny beaches of Zanzibar, and then trekked with mountain gorillas in Uganda. That said, I was traveling with far too much luggage to bring it all with me on safari.
Luckily, my host provided a large bag to fill with any items I wouldn’t need to bring to Kichwa Tembo. I sorted everything out into what I would need on my safari and what would stay behind. The host then took the extra bag to a nearby office and stored it safely until my return.
The Flight To Kichwa Tembo
As I waited near the tiny airport cafe, sipping a cappuccino, my flight was called to board right on schedule. I settled in and sat directly behind the co-pilot. This prime seat gave me excellent views out of the plane’s side and front windows. The quick flight only lasted an hour or so, but it felt like a bonus aerial safari. At a cruising altitude of only 10,000ft, it was easy to look down at spot all kinds of exciting wildlife. Flying over the Maasai Mara gave me my first glimpse of wild elephants, giraffes, and even ostriches. Every passenger on the little 10-seater plane was grinning from ear to ear!
Then, as quickly as it began, the flight came to an end as we landed safely on a remote airstrip. I’ll admit though, seeing a crashed plane just off of a dirt runway, in the middle of nowhere, as we made our approach was slightly unnerving. Apparently, several months earlier, the aircraft crashed into a small group of wildebeests as they ran out onto the runway!
Our landing could not have been any smoother, though. As I exited the aircraft, David, a guide from &Beyond, greeted me with a warm smile and a friendly handshake. After helping me with my bags, he mixed a round of welcome drinks. I went for another coffee, this time with a splash of the famous African Liqueur, Amarula. David led introductions among the small group of arriving guests as we sipped our cocktails. Then, he loaded us up into the truck, and we set off for the Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp.
The Drive To Kichwa Tembo
Although the distance to the camp was a short one, the drive ended up lasting nearly an hour. Again, it felt like being gifted a bonus mini-adventure. The ride only took as long as it did because of all the wildlife we encountered along the way. Kichwa Tembo sits on a tract of land that borders right up to the Maasai Mara. This is awesome because you get to experience wildlife in the park and outside of park hours on private land. The ride from the airstrip to the camp felt like an abbreviated game drive. I saw a surprising amount of animals, but the highlight was seeing an enormous rhinoceros before we even checked in!
Checking In At Kichwa Tembo
As we pulled into the camp, staff members greeted us by dancing and singing a traditional Swahili welcome song. With such an exciting start and enthusiastic welcome, I was all smiles. The room attendants whisked our bags to our individual tents as another staff member escorted us to the lounge. We needed to get the paperwork part of the process over with and get back to enjoying the adventure!
Our host provided an overview of the property and general information about the experience to come. During our chat, a cheerful bartender served us a round of ice-cold, bottled Tuskers, an iconic East-African beer.
At the Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp, the staff pairs you up with a dedicated guide, waiter, and room attendant for the duration of your stay. This is an excellent practice for a couple of reasons. First, it allows you to get to know the people who work so hard to create an incredible experience for you on a more personal level. The second reason I appreciated this practice is that both the staff and your guide are quick to learn about any preferences or dislikes that you may have and make adjustments accordingly to provide you with the best experience possible. I can’t say enough good things about how wonderfully the staff treated me during my stay at Kichwa Tembo.
After completing check-in, we were given a brief tour of the property and escorted to our tents.
The Property
The private land Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp sits on is leased by &Beyond from local Maasai landlords. The land borders the remote Western Mara, near the international boundary with Tanzania. The profits from the lease go towards supporting local Maasai communities.
The animals living in the Mara are entirely wild. There are no high fences to restrict their movements. For safety, though, there is a fence around the camp to help prevent larger animals and predators from entering. However, this doesn’t mean there isn’t any wildlife in Kichwa Tembo. Every afternoon I saw monkeys while walking to and from my tent. Sometimes I would hear them running across my roof! Also, a small family of warthogs frequently grazes on the lawn near the pool and lounge area. They seem harmless enough and are entertaining to watch as you enjoy a meal out on the deck.
Unlike some safari lodges, at Kichwa Tembo, guests can freely walk about the property after sunset without an escort. However, escorts armed with a flashlight, walking stick, and slingshot are readily available to show you to your tent at night if you would like them to.
There are essentially two main structures in the center of the camp. The first is the dining area with an attached deck. Connected to this building are restrooms and the &Beyond offices. The building forms a U-shape, with a garden of fresh herbs and vegetables growing in the center.
The second main building contains a gift shop loaded with clothing items and souvenirs. Local Maasai artisans make jewelry and other items available in the gift shop, and purchasing them helps support local communities.
A covered walkway connects the gift shop to the bar and lounge area, with another set of restrooms in between. Beyond the bar, at the far end of the building, is a cozy library room with comfortable furniture and books to browse. The second story contains additional, elevated seating for dining or enjoying a frosty Tusker.
Just outside of the bar & lounge area is outdoor seating arranged in a large circle around a fire pit. This creates the perfect space for roasting marshmallows and trading stories about all of the fantastic things you saw that day!
Walk beyond the fire pit or directly out from the dining area, and you will find the pool. Lounge chairs with umbrellas line the edges of the infinity pool, sitting right on the edge of the Mara. The view is unbelievable, and you can watch all sorts of wildlife right from the cool, refreshing comfort of the pool.
You’ll find a pathway from the dining area that leads you to your accommodation. Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp consists of 40 tents of varying sizes and price points. The limited number of tents ensures that the camp will always be comfortable and never feel crowded.
The Tents At Kichwa Tembo
Take any idea you may have in your head about a tent and throw it out the window. The tents on safari at Kichwa Tembo are more like stand-alone hotel rooms, only with canvas walls and ceilings. Complete with climate control, a king-size bed, walk-in shower, toilet, and double vanity, this is nothing like your typical camping trip. The tents also have a closet and outdoor sitting area. If it wasn’t for the stunning views and the scurrying of little monkeys across your roof, you might forget that you were in a tent at all. My favorite feature of all, though, was on a counter near the bathroom.
A small wooden box is built into the wall and you can open it from inside and outside of the tent. Doesn’t sound like much, right? Well, it’s amazing, and here is why. Every evening at dinner, your waiter will ask you at what time you’d like to wake the next morning. After settling on a time, your waiter passes that information along to your room attendant. Every morning, right on time, you will hear a soft, friendly greeting from outside your tent. Then your room attendant opens up this magical box from outside and inserts a tray with a fresh pot of coffee and biscuits to help get you going. I was immediately a huge fan of slipping into a provided bathrobe and easing my way over to the coffee delivery box to start my day!
The Daily Itinerary
Each day on safari can vary slightly depending on any of several factors. The weather, time of year, location within the Mara you’re aiming for, and any scheduled activities other than game drives all play a role in determining your exact plan for the day. Generally speaking, though, a typical day on safari at Kichwa Tembo will look something like this:
Mornings At Kichwa Tembo
An hour or so before sunrise, your room attendant delivers coffee and biscuits by slipping them through your magic coffee box. Have a shower and enjoy your coffee before heading to the dining area for breakfast.
After breakfast, meet your guide near the front of the camp, load up for your game drive and head out. Pull out of camp before dawn and watch a spectacular sunrise over the expansive African plains. Game drives can last anywhere from 3-5 hours and are always over too soon!
Afternoons At Kichwa Tembo
After the morning game drive, you return to camp for the afternoon. You will have several hours of free time before your next game drive. Most of the animals will be taking it easy and resting during this part of the day, so you should too! Just relax and slip into vacation mode. Eat a big lunch, soak up some sun with a cold Dawa by the pool, read, journal about everything you saw on your game drive, or head to your tent for a power nap.
Now, if you’re like I was before my stay at Kichwa Tembo, you’re probably wondering, “What in the world is a Dawa?!”
Invented just outside Nairobi, the Dawa, or Medicine, the cocktail is now a Kenyan staple. The simple recipe only calls for freshly cubed lime, muddled with lime juice and sugar, then mixed with vodka and poured over ice. This delightful libation’s magic, though, comes from a small, locally sourced, and carved stirrer called a Dawa stick. The bartender rolls and dips the Dawa stick in local honey. Then you use your Dawa stick to stir and sweeten the drink as you enjoy every heavenly sip. It might not sound like much, but these tasty little beverages are unbelievably delicious! I did my best not to overindulge, but I have to admit that a poolside Dawa quickly became one of my favorite parts of the day.
Remember, this is your vacation, so the afternoon is yours to whatever you want!
Late Afternoon To Evening
Your second game drive of the day begins in the late afternoon. This gives you ample time to see plenty of Africa’s iconic wildlife before it gets dark. Your afternoon drive also means Africa will treat you to another stunning light show. The beauty of the sunsets on an African safari is impossible to describe with any justice. Seeing the bold, black silhouettes of acacia trees and elephants backlit by a blood orange African sun melting into the horizon is a truly magnificent experience. Watching the sunset one evening, I decided that if I didn’t see another animal on the trip, it wouldn’t bother me one bit. Without hesitation, I would gladly go back on a safari at Kichwa Tembo just for the sunsets alone.
Even after the sun disappears, though, the show’s not over. Being in a location nearly devoid of any light pollution whatsoever, an innumerable amount of stars begin to appear, shining brightly in the infinite black of the endless African sky.
The Game Drives At Kichwa Tembo
While on paper, a game drive is essentially just you riding around in a safari vehicle looking for wildlife, it is an absolutely incredible experience. Getting up close and personal with iconic African wildlife is simply thrilling. It’s one thing to see a massive bull elephant or a big male lion on TV, but it’s a different experience entirely to have one walk to within feet of you, sitting in an open-air vehicle.
On a typical day at Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp, you take two game drives. The length of the drive depends on the weather, the activity of the animals, and how far into The Mara you are traveling. Certain animals like to frequent specific areas of the park at different times of the year. Your knowledgeable guides will schedule your exact departure times and create a plan each day based on where you are heading and what types of animals you are searching for. However, this can always change in an instant. Guides communicate with one another via radio. If another vehicle witnesses something exciting, your guide is informed over the radio, and you rush off towards the action!
Vehicles
Kichwa Tembo uses specifically modified, open, Land Cruiser vehicles for game drives on safari. The trucks include comfortable, cushioned seats, armrests, storage compartments, binoculars, and a traditional Maasai blanket per passenger. Also, a refrigerator stocked with water, beer, and wine for you to enjoy as you please.
If you feel like cracking open an ice-cold Tusker at any time, that certainly is allowed and quite enjoyable. However, the ride is often a bumpy one. My guide, David, lovingly referred to it as an “African massage.” This means sipping a bottle of beer is not always the most straightforward task to accomplish during your drive. Luckily, yet again, the outstanding people and &Beyond and Kichwa Tembo have thought of everything.
On several of the evening game drives, as the day began to wind down, our fantastic guide, David, would find a spot with spectacular views to stop the vehicle. One of the many daily highlights on safari is the famed African tradition of “sundowners.” A sundowner is a cocktail enjoyed in the evening, around the time the sun begins to set. It’s almost like tea time to the English, but with a kick.
Slowing down for a sundowner affords you a moment to pause and take it all in. It’s nice to take a deep breath and fully appreciate the experience as you are having it. David always came well prepared with a table, chairs, snacks, and various spirits from which to choose. It’s hard to describe how special these little breaks in the evenings are. If there are any words to accurately describe an African sunset while on safari, I certainly don’t have them.
Special Occasions
Aside from sundowners being mixed up and served by your guide, breakfast can be another special little occasion on a game drive. Most mornings, I enjoyed my breakfast at the camp, but one morning David treated us to yet another once-in-a-lifetime experience. The second morning on safari at Kichwa Tembo, we set off particularly early, hoping to catch a glimpse of an elusive cheetah. A couple of hours later, we had seen tons of wildlife, but no cheetah.
David decided we might have better luck on a full stomach. So, out in a vast expanse of African grassland, he halted the vehicle and began setting up a table and chairs under one of the sparsely found trees on the savannah. Here, with an abundance of assurance that this was completely safe, David whipped up some cappuccinos and started on breakfast. He proceeded to treat me to an assortment of toasts, jams, and fruits as he prepared sausages, bacon, and eggs to order. It was a remarkable breakfast experience!
Restroom Breaks
After a coffee and a bottle of water, you might find yourself in need of a restroom break. Breaks are always taken as needed, though facilities are rare in the park, so a “bush bathroom” is often your only option. We did visit at least one restroom building with western-style toilets and sinks for washing up, but don’t count on being near one of them very often. Be sure to use the restrooms at camp before heading out, and consider limiting your liquids intake until a little later in the drive. If you are like me and convinced that any trip behind a bush would undoubtedly result in death by lion attack, plan accordingly before starting your drive!
Fear Factor
While on safari, you are very likely to find yourself in close proximity to extremely dangerous wild animals. You have to go into the situation knowing that anything is possible when dealing with nature and wild animals. However, you always remain relatively safe. The animals you encounter are accustomed to seeing safari vehicles and don’t generally perceive them as a threat. I’d be lying if I said my heart rate didn’t elevate when a large male lion approached within arm’s reach, but the rush of excitement is part of what makes a safari so exhilarating.
Additionally, your guide is well-trained in how to read the animal’s demeanor and knows precisely what to do to keep you safe and out of harm’s way. Stay calm, be respectful, always listen to your guide, and you will be fine!
Dining At Kichwa Tembo
Kichwa Tembo serves three meals per day throughout your stay. The food is cooked in an interactive kitchen, so you can see your entree prepared right in front of you. Different meats, cheeses, fruits, salads, and desserts are available at every meal. The entrees vary each day but are always prepared with quality ingredients.
The flavorful food offerings at Kichwa Tembo are tasty, fresh, and overall, well above average. The chefs at Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp cater to nearly all dietary restrictions, and many of the foods served are sustainably grown right on the property. Your dedicated waiter quickly learns your drink and table location preferences and will have them ready and waiting upon your arrival.
Dining times are not exact, which provides plenty of flexibility as to when you eat. If your game drive runs a little long, or you want to take a hot shower and have some down-time to relax before eating, you won’t ever need to stress about missing your meal. Everything will be waiting for you when you are ready, and there are snacks and treats available between meal times as well.
All meals are served in the main dining area of the camp, with two notable exceptions. One, as mentioned earlier, might be that your guide is preparing breakfast for you on your morning game drive. The other is to book an evening dining experience in the bush as one of several optional activities that Kichwa Tembo offers its guests.
The Optional Activities
During your safari vacation at &Beyond’s Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp, you have the option to spice up your itinerary with some exciting optional activities. Your choices include a visit to a local Maasai Village, a massage in camp, a hot air balloon flight over the Mara, an African nature walk, and the previously mentioned bush dining experience.
The Camp Entertainment
A few nights a week, after the sun sets and dinner has been served, a group of local Maasai men arrives in camp to entertain and educate guests. As everyone gathers around the fire pit area outside the lounge, the Maasai men tell guests about their way of life and treat them to traditional singing and dancing. They even show you their famous “mating dance” where the two men at a time come forward and see who can jump the highest into the air, hoping to impress a suitable mate. Guests are invited and even encouraged to participate in the ritual and see how they measure up against these skilled Maasai warriors!
Afterward, the Maasai tribesmen will hang around the camp for a while, offering a selection of traditional hand-made goods for sale as souvenirs. The proceeds go toward supporting the local schools and communities.
Departuring Kichwa Tembo
My departure from Kichwa Tembo was a small adventure in and of itself. It’s crucial to build as much cushion as possible into your travel plans, as traveling through Africa’s remote regions can be unpredictable. As I prepared to depart, David informed me we were delayed slightly. No big deal. Then he came back and said we weren’t going to the nearby airfield directly in front of Kichwa Tembo but instead would need to make a drive of roughly 30-40 minutes to another airstrip on a nearby hilltop.
After arriving at the alternate airstrip, I boarded the plane and took off on a flight of only a few minutes in length. Arriving down in the valley from which I had just driven up, I looked around and could actually see Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp in the distance! The pilot then told me to deplane here and wait for a while until another plane would come along and take me all the way back to Nairobi.
I spent the next 45 minutes under the tin roof of a small shed next to a dirt runway that had been cut into the grasslands. I sat in the company of a man in a vest that appeared to work for the airline, one man wearing camouflage and holding an old rifle, a third man dressed in traditional Maasai clothing, and three other guests from a different camp also headed home from their safari.
Finally, the second plane arrived and carried us back to Nairobi without incident. It all ended as quickly as it began, and I hated to leave such a stunning and fascinating place.
Pricing at Kichwa Tembo
The cost of your stay at Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp will depend on which month you are visiting and the type of accommodation you choose. Regardless of your choice of accommodation, all experiences at Kichwa Tembo include the following; two game drives per day, three meals per day, water, soft drinks, local brand beer, house wines, and spirits, teas, coffees, and refreshments while on game drives, emergency medical evacuation insurance, transfers to and from the airstrip, and a pair of Swarovski binoculars to use during game drives.
The people at &Beyond are more than happy to custom tailor a package that is right for you. My package included transfer to and from Nairobi airports, as well as flights to and from the Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp via SafariLink aviation. Also, all entrance and park fees were included. The only additional costs I incurred after the original booking was gratuities for the guides and staff and my local Maasai village visit.
If you are interested, you may purchase optional activities for additional fees, such as a hot air balloon ride, night drives, and bush walks. Also available for purchase are souvenirs from the gift shop, premium wines, liquors, and cigars.
Tent options during the low seasons start as low as $330 per person per day. During the peak season, options begin as low as $450 per person per day. The tents at Kichwa Tembo are designed to accommodate two people per tent, with a limited number of larger, family tents available as well.
I spent some cash along the way, so I can’t know the exact dollar amount that trip cost in the end. The closest estimate for my 5-day/4-night safari stay at Kichwa Tembo comes out to be somewhere around $650 dollars per day. This includes gratuities, a visit to a local Maasai community, and a few souvenirs for my family back home. Considering everything that was included, and the overall incredible experience, it was absolutely worth every penny.
The Best Time To Visit Kichwa Tembo
It’s important to decide what it is you would like to see before booking your safari to Kenya. Weather patterns dictate peak and low seasons in Kenya, and the rains are almost solely responsible for when the Great Migration takes place in a given area. However, as the global climate continues to change, there are no guarantees when it comes to planning a safari. When dealing with Mother Nature, you can only use good judgment and hope for the best.
Having said that, Kenya is nearly a year-round destination. The rains are generally at their heaviest during April and May. This causes a number of roads to become impassible, so many lodges shut down during this time.
Otherwise, the dry season in Kenya runs from June through October. This is the busiest time of year to go on safari. The limited amount of vegetation and sparse amounts of water force the animals to congregate near watering holes. Seeing game is easy during this time, but it can be hot, dusty, and crowded. The Great Migration peaks in the Maasai Mara from late August through October. This marks the busiest time in Kenya and the most expensive. Reservations fill up quickly, so be sure to book your trip well in advance.
The rest of the year sees lush, green vegetation and plenty of water. During these times of the year, the vegetation is thick, and several water sources are around, making game more challenging to spot. However, there is still a substantial amount of wildlife to be observed, and the Big 5 can be seen year-round.
Africa’s Big 5 refers to 5 of the most popular and iconic African Animals; the Elephant, Lion, Rhino, Leopard, and Cape Buffalo. The term was initially used by big game hunters, describing the animals that are the hardest to hunt on foot. It has since spread and is now widely used in the safari world.
My safari with &Beyond and Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp took place the last week of February. Although there had been some unseasonal rains prior to my arrival, I enjoyed perfect weather the entire time I was there. The mornings and evenings were chilly, especially while riding in an open-air vehicle during a game drive. When the sun came up, the temperatures rose with it and made for warm, pleasant afternoons. Perfect for sipping poolside Dawas after lunch!
Final Thoughts
I went on my first safari back in 2016, in South Africa. I loved every minute of that trip and hoped I might someday get the chance to go on another safari. My stay at Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp was every bit as amazing as my first safari. I left with a deep sense of gratitude and appreciation for the experience I just had, and that same yearning and hope to one day return for yet another safari adventure. If you are considering taking a big trip somewhere, please move an African safari to the top of your list. It truly does offer something for every type of traveler.
Solo travelers have the opportunity to meet and socialize with the other guest throughout their stay. Whether that is in the camp, during meals, at the pool, or during happy hours and sundowners by the bar.
African sunsets give way to expansive skies filled with thousands of stars. This creates an exceptionally romantic atmosphere for a couple sharing an evening on their honeymoon or anniversary.
Safaris have a great deal to offer families as well. The excitement of the game drives and opportunities to visit local communities provides a vacation that is as fun and exciting as it is insightful and transformative.
I genuinely wish everyone could experience an African safari at least once in their lives. It is truly one of the most unforgettable vacations anyone can possibly take!
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