Take A Ride On The Aurora Winter Train

While searching for the best winter travel destinations in the U.S., I came across a Travel+Leisure article that piqued my interest. The headline read, ” The Most Beautiful Winter Train Routes In America.” As I began to click through the slide show, the first trip on the list immediately grabbed my attention – The Aurora Winter Train in Alaska. 

Visiting Alaska in the winter might sound like a terrible idea to some of you. Even in the middle of March, the forecast was calling for temperatures exceeding -20°F (-29°C). At the time of planning, though, I was ready and willing to go just about anywhere. Travel has virtually come to a halt over the past year. Now that things have slowly started to open up again, I’m ready to seize every travel opportunity that I can.   

In the summer of 2020, I temporarily scratched the travel itch during a 10,000-mile road trip across America. After returning home to Atlanta, I headed further south to spend some time on north Florida’s sunny beaches. Finally, in late January, I took my first flight in almost a year for a ski trip to Park City, Utah. Nearly a month had gone by since then, and I was more than eager for another getaway.   

Why I Chose the Aurora

The Aurora Winter Train appealed to me for several reasons. I genuinely enjoy train travel and have been wanting to do more of it. I love the simplicity of boarding a train, settling into a comfortable seat, and watching the world unfold in front of you. Train travel has a unique way of unveiling hidden gems to its passengers. You’re accessing places where roads don’t exist, and that can’t be fully appreciated by flying high above them in a plane. 

Alaska is well known for its dramatic landscapes. The weather, however, can be brutal. So, what better way to see the rugged Alaskan interior during the frigid winter months than from the warm, comfortable confines of a scenic train ride? 

Finally, the trip provided me another opportunity to see the Northern Lights. Fairbanks, where the train journey began, is one of the best places on earth to view the Aurora Borealis. Seeing them has been near the top of my bucket list for years. In 2017 I traveled to Iceland hoping to see nature’s most spectacular light show but had no luck. Two years later, I traveled north of the Arctic Circle in Finland to give it another try. However, I was unlucky yet again. The chance to try for the third time was incredibly exciting and too good to pass up.

Within hours I booked my flight, train ticket, and a Northern Lights tour out of Fairbanks. I started gathering the warmest gear I owned and counted down the days until takeoff!

The Train Itinerary

The 12-hour train ride kicked off in Fairbanks headed south to Anchorage. Covid-19 restrictions limited the number of available seats on the train, so by the time I booked my trip, the popular northbound route (Anchorage to Fairbanks) had sold out. I’ll talk in more detail about Alaska Railroad’s current Covid-19 restrictions a little later on. 

The Aurora Winter Train is a full-day affair. I arrived at the station around 7 am the morning of departure. As I checked in at the counter and checked my bag, I was given my boarding pass with an assigned seat and train car and a helpful information brochure. At 8 o’clock, one of the on-board guides entered the waiting area and announced the guidelines and boarding procedures. Ten minutes later, I was comfortably in my seat and ready to go.

The night before the train ride, I took a tour to view the Aurora Borealis. The experience was incredible, but it meant that I was up all night enjoying the lights and hadn’t yet been to sleep. I was worried I might fall asleep during the ride and miss something special. As soon as we rolled out of town, though, the excitement of seeing the wild Alaskan interior gave me all the energy I needed to brush aside any lingering fatigue.  

The Sights

The scenery along the ride is constantly changing and never disappointing. I couldn’t help but stare out the oversized picture window and marvel at how truly incredible the landscape was. The Aurora Winter Train journey takes you over massive bridges, alongside frozen lakes and rivers of solid ice, and directly through the towering snow-covered mountain peaks of the Alaska Range. On a clear day, you even see Denali, the highest peak in North America!

Two guides on the train use the intercom to point out all of the highlights along the route. They are quick to offer up interesting facts about the landmarks and villages you pass by. They even shared a few wild stories about some of the locals in the area. I won’t spoil any of them here, though. You’ll just have to take the ride and find out for yourself!

The guides and the conductor constantly communicate with each other and are always keeping an eye out for any exciting wildlife you might spot from the train. If they see anything, they let you know immediately so you can be looking in the right direction with your camera at the ready. During my journey, I saw dozens of moose and several bald eagles!  

 If the train is making good time and comes across something particularly interesting, the conductor will happily slow or even stop the train completely. This is great for watching a giant moose tromp through the snow or to get that perfect picture of the snow-covered mountains in the distance.

The Locals

Aside from the iconic Alaskan wildlife, you may see some of the local human population as well. There are no roads in the area. So, for many Alaskans, the railway is the only access to many parts of the remote interior. In my experience, the Alaskan people were always exceedingly friendly and helpful. The operators of the Aurora Winter Train were no different. In an effort to support the local communities, the train offers flag stop service throughout the journey. 

This means that a person living off-grid in the remote Alaskan wilderness can simply walk out near the tracks, and with the wave of a flag, stop the train and hop on. We made a couple of these stops during the day. The guides and conductor seemed to know every single village and person along the entire route. The flag stop service is a crucial lifeline to many of the local inhabitants. 

Staying Comfortable

Aside from flag stops, the train made a couple of brief stops so passengers could get out to stretch their legs and take in some fresh air. Conductor Verne even kicked off a small snow angel party! Aside from that, all you need to do is sit back, relax, and enjoy the spectacular views.  

Having said that, 12 hours is a long time to sit and stare out of a window. So, it won’t hurt to bring a deck of cards or an e-reader with you to keep you entertained along the way.

The entire train consisted only of the engine, two passenger cars, and a single dining car. The Aurora Winter Train doesn’t see quite as many guests as its summertime counterpart, the Denali Star, although it follows the same route. A summer ride on the Denali Star offers an optional upgraded Gold Class ticket. This gives passengers access to a glass-domed viewing car that just doesn’t hold enough heat to be plausible for use during Alaska’s unforgiving winter months. 

The reclining seats were wide and comfortable. I was lucky enough to have a power outlet just below my window. Otherwise, charging stations in the rear of both passenger cars are free to use throughout the journey.

Due to Covid-19 restrictions, only about 60 passengers rode the train during my trip. The passenger cars consisted of two rows with two seats each. However, every other row was empty and staggered between the left and right sides of the train. Masks were to be worn at all times unless a passenger is actively eating or drinking. 

Dining on and off the Train

Likewise, in the dining car, every other table was blocked off for social distancing. While regulations are in place, the dining car attendant walks through the passenger cars’ aisle before each of the three meal services. She asks each passenger if they would like to dine for the upcoming meal and then creates a reservation schedule based on the number of passengers attending. When your table is ready, she comes to your seat and invites you to the dining car for your meal.  

The Aurora Winter Train serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner during the 12-hour journey. All meals are optional and come at an additional cost. Throughout the ride, in between meal services, passengers can visit the dining car to purchase a selection of snacks and beverages. Unlimited bottled waters are available in the dining car and the passenger cars, free of charge. 

I passed on the train’s breakfast offerings and opted for a protein bar I brought along with me. I recommend bringing along some of your favorite snacks in case you don’t see anything you like on the menu.

For lunch, I set a reservation and tried out the dining car. I chose the grilled cheese sandwich and tomato soup. The food was warm and tasty, but be sure to manage your expectations. Think along the lines of airplane quality dining. Michelin certainly won’t be awarding any stars in the near future, but it is all part of the experience. The menu includes a few different options for each meal.

I held off on dinner until after the ride ended. A friend had recommended I try Moose Tooth’s Pizza, a favorite restaurant of the locals in Anchorage. The pizza hit the spot and was a good way to kill some time before heading to the airport to catch the redeye back to Atlanta. 

Overall, my Aurora Winter Train journey was excellent. Experiencing the wild Alaskan interior’s unbelievable winter scenery without suffering through the extreme cold was remarkably satisfying. I highly recommend this trip to anyone looking for an exhilarating winter getaway. 

Use this link for the most current schedules and pricing options for all of the Alaska Railroad Journeys.